Refastening the deck to the hull

Thanks Kingston; Sound like what I plan to do except for raising the deck but I will explore this when I get to it.
Cheer

James, The hull and deck were put on in "shoe box" fashion. This was not a good attachment, some were fiberglassed on the inside. You have to drill out the rivet and cut the fiberglass from the inside. I found that my Fine vibrating saw did the job with less danger to me working from inside the boat. I used a router and the fine to remove all the wood in the hull including the inside of the transom. I saved the glass on the outside of the transom. Next I hade the inside of the boat sandblasted. I filled the wings with poured foam and then glassed the total inside of the hull with triple-axel roving. I built up the transom with several layers of tis material, taking the material up above the 20 inch transom height. After this I turned the boat over and fixed the bottom. I used this same material to flatten the hull at the stern, and added a planning strip on the keel. (about 8-9 inches wide and 6 feet long blending in forward). I Awlgrip the bottom at this time (easy). With the boat back upright I cut a stringer for down the middle of the boat. I added 3 inches to the height of the floor at the stern and glassed it in. That 3 inches stayed for 4 feet. I glassed in a 4 foot section of a half inch honey comp panel. I pulled the boat up bu the bow to about 45 degrees and added poured foam. I added another 4 foot panel and foam again, but at this time I sloped the floor about an inch. Repeated the process until getting to the stem. I glassed all the panels with the trim-axel and a layer of chopped strand mat. I gained some of the loss inside the boat by raising the deck about an inch and a half by not using the shoe box method. Next I completed the transom. I glassed it with several layers bonding it to the floor. The transom is now about 3/8" thick. Several inches above the floor I added 3/8 marine plywood in layers with the trim-axel between each layer until I got the thickness I wanted. Next I put the deck on, holding it up above the hull 1/2 inch with boards across the centerline. I then trimmed the transom to fit the deck and clamped the deck to the hull with small blocks of wood about a foot apart. I glassed the hull to the deck between these blocks with the same try-axel, removed the blocks and filled in with the same. I faired the seam for AWLGRIP. I reworked the splash guard and glassed it in. Now you can AWLGRIP the deck and install your seat. The motor mounting bolts are above the waterline. I put in 2 drain plugs at floor level and they are above the waterline so I can leave the plugs out when I leave the boat in the water for long periods of time. The boat has positive floatation which is now a requirement by the Coast Guard for good reason. One of my neighbors had his standard G-3 at the dock where It took a wave and sank. I call my boat a "Resto-Mod" as I want something that is safe and will work. I would build another G-3 the same way, but I am doing a Shamrock 20 Cuddy,"Resto-Mod". Kingston