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Post by kingston on May 14, 2021 14:24:39 GMT -5
With the cost of boats going out os site, the Resto-Mod market is heating up. There is a good editorial in Professional BoatBuilder Magazine about this. The G3 is a great candidate for this treatment. Take the hull and deck and make the modifications that are now possible and bring it into the 21st century. I did this with my G3 with help from members of this form and I have a great boat that requires little maintenance, preforms well and is safe. All in with a new motor you should be into it for about $6k to $7k. A new boat of this quality$16 to 17K. Interested, Kingston
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Post by Lance on Aug 21, 2021 16:35:27 GMT -5
Kingston - have you documented your resto-mod here? If not, what is the best source of info on how to approach a G3 resto-mod for a noob like me? Thanks in advance. --lance
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Post by kingston on Aug 31, 2021 17:42:12 GMT -5
Lance, I have put on this form parts of what I did to. my boat. It alll depends on how much you want to do. I like fiberglass work, so I did a lot of changing. To start off I removed the deck. I then removed all wood from the hull. I added a layer of tri-axel roving to the hull, foam filled the sponsons and added another layer inside of the transom. I replaced the wood strigers with a glass foam stringer down the center of the boat raising the floor height by 3 inches the stern tapered to the bow. I glassed in floor panels ( hex filled from Fiberlay) 4 feet at a time with the boat at a 45 degree angle starting at the stern. Next a layer of the tri-axel on the floor. I built up the transom with layers of 3/8" marine plywood and the trim-axel making sure I was high enough to give me a 20" transom. I rolled the boat over and repaired any dings in the bottom and added a planing strip about 9" wide and going about 6 feet forward from the stern (fairing it in at the forward end. I finished the hull to the waterline with 6 coats of epoxy hull sealed and then bottom paint. I finished the rest of the hull with AWL Grip. Next I worked on the deck. I replaced the wood stringers that ran for and aft with foam and glass beams running across. I cleaned up all the holes in the dash and other places with glass and sanded the deck ready for finish. I rested the deck on the hull with 3/4" boards every 2 feet. I tried the transom to fit the deck in this place. with the board in place I made wood clamps3"x3" and clamped the hull to the deck. starting at the bow I glassed the hull to the deck removing the boards as I went. Before I got to the stern I glassed the deck directly to the transom that was fitted to the deck. After this I removed the clamps and glassed the rest of the hull to the decal of this from the inside with Sri axel. On the outside of this seam I filled and glass tapped to smooth everything out. Next AWL GRIP the deck the color of your choice. Instal a rub strip of your choice over the fiberglass fill. I forgot to add, install the splash well by glassing it in. A solid job strengths the transom. The boat is now 1.5" deeper and has a positive floatation with an outboard. More details if you want. Kingston
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Post by peyton11 on Aug 26, 2022 7:27:26 GMT -5
Lance, this sounds very interesting could you post some pictures of your steps and the finished boat on this site . I am now working on my second g3 and like to see what you have done. Thank you
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